Wilderness Logics

As any bigger people know finding outdoor gear that will work for you is a major pain in the butt… Sleeping bags, especially mummy bags can be tough to find.  Most outdoor companies don’t think about us “husky” folks.

Wilderness Logics, a relatively unknown company is different in this department, they make a top quilt (think zipper less sleeping bag). Top quilts are great they save weight and the insulation under you when in your sleeping bag does not do much for warmth when compressed.  Top quilts are the go to for hammock camping.

The Wilderness Logics King Top Quilt is built for us bigger folks in mind, tall or wide… It is 55″ x 78″ with a

King Quilt

sewn foot box to tuck your feet into.  I’m about 300lbs and this quilt fits me perfect. Big people’s hunt for a great sleeping bad has ended! They even have a smaller quilt for not so husky people… 6″ shorter and 7″ narrower, saving 3oz.

Every time I get a piece of gear from a cabin company I am always so surprised with the quality and Wilderness Logics has some of the best work I have seen.  They have a history in sewing for interior design and when a furniture company in their area closed the derided to jump into the outdoor market to put skilled people in their community back to work… HOW AWESOME!

Got Loft?

The quilt is made of 1.1 ripstop and stuffed with 14oz of 800+ down baffled to 2″, all the seams are straight and sturdy.  The down seems to stay put well not shifting around too much… One of the neatest features is the fleece patch to absorb condensation,    I like it because it is comfy against the skin too. The patch attaches with Velcro so it can be removed for washing.  I took this quilt into the 40′s in a hammock with nothing but underwear on and was toasty warm.  They give the bag a 20 degree rating, but I think it would go lower.

Top of the footbox

It weighs in a 25oz and stuffs down to 12×7. This may seem large and a bit heavy for down but remember you are getting a bag that is going to fit you comfortably…

Wilderness Logics has other products from hammocks to tarps and under quilts too.  I would not hesitate one bit to stand behind them 100% check them out you will not be disappointed!

Sorry, no related posts.

Weight, size and shape

All three of these criteria have to be carefully thought over.  A heavy or bulky sleeping bag can make all the difference as the added weight of a heavy sleeping bag can slow you down or take up room in your backpack that you might need for other essential items. Lighter sleeping bags tend to be more expensive than their heavier counterparts, but if you have the budget they are definitely worth the investment.  As for size and shape, most hiking sleeping bags are “mummy” shaped to conserve heat, but if you’re a restless sleeper this won’t leave much room for moving around so it might be worth looking into rectangular down sleeping bags as an alternative. Again, they are pricier than standard sleeping bags, but will guarantee you get a better nights’ sleep.

Fill material

When it comes to fill material there are only two choices: down or synthetic. Down is lighter and more durable than synthetic filling, but if it gets wet it will lose its loft and, subsequently, its insulating power. If you’re going somewhere near water or snow, or just hiking on a particularly wet weekend, you will always be better off with synthetic filling. Another bonus of synthetic fill sleeping bags is that they are cheaper than down fill bags, though they are not as durable and will need replacing sooner. The down fill might be a better investment in the long run.

Temperature rating

This should be the lowest temperature you would be comfortable in and you should choose a bag with a temperature rating that’s 10 degrees Fahrenheit lower than the coldest temperature forecast for your destination.

Price

This should be the last thing you consider and the least important factor in your purchasing decision. If you’re on a tight budget price can seem really important at the time, but compromising on quality can mean waking up tired, sore and in no mood to hike in the morning. Weigh up price and quality carefully before making a decision on what sleeping bag will best suit you.

Sorry, no related posts.

You Sweat You Die

Wearing Cotton – Cotton is great for bombing around town or the trip to the mall. It is soft and comfortable but once cotton is wet, it stays wet and loses any insulating properties. If the summer nothing is worse than your sweat drenched clammy cotton shirt sticking to you. Pick wicking clothing; you can even find wicking sport shirts and underwear at Walmart.

Wearing too Many Layers – Piling on a bunch of layers before heading out is great, just don’t over do it.  What is the point if a mile into the hike you are going to over heat and have to shed a layer? I keep a record of what I wear and the temperature so I can look back and compare for current conditions.

Bundle Up When You Stop – When you stop hiking, you lose body heat fast, epically if it is windy.  Bundle up when you stop for food or to take a break to avoid the chills.  Once the chills set in it is hard to get rid of them…

Sweating – Les Stroud says it best “if you sweat, you die”. Sweat is your body’s way of removing excess heat through evaporation.  After sweating when the temp drops the chills set in and can quickly lead to hyperthermia.

Sorry, no related posts.

Kako IceTrekkers Diamond Grips

I will be comparing Kako IceTrekkers Diamond Grips to Yaktrax because they are closest in price, and I am familiar with Yaktrax.

First Thoughts

They came in a simple plastic bag with a product insert.  The Diamond Grips are much beefier than Yaktrax. By design no rubber parts are underfoot. Wielded chains attach the rubber to wire loops holding the metal “diamonds”.  Diamond Grips are bit heavier (12oz vs 8oz) then Yaktrax at  but one would expect them to be and worth the weight for the added durability.

Putting them on

Diamond Grips have no left or right pair so no need to keep track.  They slip on just like Yaktrax. The rubber is a bit stronger so a little more pull is required.  The easiest way to put them on is to slip your toe in first and pull over your heal. Give them a good check to make sure the “diamonds” are centered on the ball and heal of your foot.  Adjustments are easy.

-

Traction

The first time I used these was to shovel the driveway… again… they gripped great on both ice and hard packed snow.  On fresh snow the Diamond Grips gripped well. I had some slipping on steeper climbs, but I expected it. I don’t feel like I have to worry walking on rocks and non snow covered surfaces because underfoot is only metal no rubber. They slightly outperform Yaktrax and I feel Diamond Grips would last a lifetime.

Conclusion

For thefew extra bucks that Diamond Grips cost I would recommend them over Yaktrax.  They will outlast and outperform Yaktrax for everyday use and hiking on packed snow. Even though they are heavier they are still hardly noticed. The security of not having thin rubber underfoot is great!

Disclosure: Kato provided HuskyHiker.com with a complementary pair of of the IceTrekkers for this review.  However, This product review is based on first hand experience and not biased due to receiving free merchandise.

Related posts:

1. Product Review: Yaktrax Pro Traction System
2. Product Review: GUTR Ultimate Sweatband
3. Product Review: Katadyn Pocket Microfilter

Yaktrax Pro

I have had my Yaktrax Pros for a couple of years now and love them… I have used them on everything from deep powder to crossing a frozen lake.  They really grip!

First Thoughts

When you open the package, they seem flimsy, it is a rubber web with some thin metal coils around parts of the rubber. They are kind of flimsy. The coils take some abuse. I have used them on ice-patched pavement and haven’t bent or flattened the coils. I can see how the rubber could break, although this has not happened to me.

Putting them on

They do have a left, a right pair, and a toe and heal side so some thought is required in putting them on.  They are pretty easy to get on, just slip your toe in the toe side and pull the heal of the yak over your boot or shoe heals.  Some adjustments of the sides are needed, and then tighten the Velcro strap over the top of your foot.  The strap is what make the pros differ from the regular Yaktrax, and the strap is a big help original Yaktrax are known to slip off shoes easily so don’t skimp, go with the pros.  If you are going to be wearing them on big winter boots, I would recommend getting one size bigger than your shoe size.

Traction

I have hiked in them, used them around town, and out when shoveling the driveway, and they really help keep you stable… I always wear them to shovel!  On some hikes, if the trail is well broken in I opt for the Yaktrax rather than snow shoes.  In snow, you will still slip and slide a little but on ice these things keep you put!  Best of all at 6-8 oz (depending on size) you barley notice you are wearing them.  One word of caution though DO NOT wear them in side especially on tile or linoleum floors, the metal coils provide no traction, and you will fall… trust me!

Conclusion

They might not be a burly as other traction devices out there, but they do the job.  They are light and provide great traction, especially on ice.  They stay on the foot, and I have been using mine for two years with no breakage (I can see how the thin rubber could break and this worries me when I am 3-4 miles into a hike).  If you are looking for traction around town and for the occasional hike I would not hesitate to buy a pair of Yaktrax Pros…

Related posts:

1. Product Review: GUTR Ultimate Sweatband
2. Product Review: Katadyn Pocket Microfilter
3. Product Review/Giveaway – Screw Pop 4in1 Tool

GSI Outdoors Pinnacle Dualist

Having a hot meal after a log day of hiking is just awesome. Even the simplest things taste wonderful, after a 10 mile day you can have the best instant noodles you have ever had. Setting up a backcountry kitchen can be challenging seeing that most people don’t really know what they need or want till they are out there cooking at camp. Here I hope to steer you in the right direction in building your perfect backcountry kitchen.

Parts of your basic kitchen:

1. Stove: When it comes to picking out a stove that will work for you first you need to think about what kind of cooking you plan on doing.  If you plan on mostly instant noodles, oatmeal, and dehydrated meals almost any stove will work for you.  If you want to cook gourmet backcountry feasts than you will need to look for a stove with good flame control so you can simmer and whatnot.  For simple cooking you can go with anything from a low cost alcohol stove to a fancy jetboil stove. Cooking that requires more finesse like simmering and low heat you need to shop around a bit more. Stoves like the MSR Simmerlight, Jetboil, and MSR Dragonfly.I carry a MSR Whisperlight mainly because I picked it up at a yard sale for $5 a few years ago and it does everything I need, It is a great stove for boiling water and simple cooking, very reliable…
2. Cookset: Here it is all about size and weight.  If you cook for only yourself a small pot will do, something like this 0.9L Vargo Ti pot would be great. If you hike with groups varying in size a full cookset might be a better choice, allowing you to pick and choose what you take a long. This Optimus Terra 3 piece will treat you right.Want it all? Want to impress your friends? Weight not a concern? Get the MSR Flex 4 system or the GSI Outdoors Pinnacle set.I’m cheap, I carry a super cheap option for a solo pot. An aluminum grease pot, I got mine at kmart for about 6 bucks…
3. Utensils: I think Utensils are the most fun to buy, they are cheap and you can find them in every style. The funny thing is almost anything will work, heck a stick could do the job. All you need to do is stir and shovel…Plastic “silverware” from a fast food joint is free and does the trick. Need something a bit more sturdy? How about the light my fire spork, or the Brunton Folding Spork.

Having a great camp kitchen can really make or break a trip so shop around read some reviews and choose carefully…

Related posts:

1. Dropping Pounds to Drop Pounds—Lightweight Backpacking and Weight Loss

Francis Tapon the summit of Mount Aneto Photo by Francis Tapon

Guest post by: Francis Tapon
Want to be a guest poster on HuskyHiker.com?  E-mail me

Ultralight backpackers love to have endless and tedious discussions about how to shave off an ounce here and a gram there. They’ll blow an extra $50 just to get the pants that weigh a few feathers less than another pair of pants. These idiots are so obsessed with their pack-weight that they forget the whole point of backpacking: enjoying the wilderness.

I can describe ultralight backpackers accurately, because, sadly, I am one.

Indeed, I’m cursed with this ridiculous compulsion to chop every useless gram off my gear list. My talent for doing this made lightweight backpackers more interested in my Continental Divide Trail gear list than in the excitement of being the first person to yo-yo the CDT.

As a result, some backpackers ask me to examine their gear list and advise them on how to reduce their overall weight. However, before doing that, I ask them to send me a full body photo of themselves. Why?

Because there is one secret to lightweight backpacking that we avid lightweight backpackers never talk about: our own weight reduction!

Many books on backpacking allude to the importance of being in shape. However, given the amount of pages they devote on reducing pack weight, I wonder if it would be wiser to spend a few more pages talking about the importance of losing body fat.

There are three reasons why losing a kilo of body fat is not as effective (hiking-wise) as a kilo of pack weight:

1. Your body has become accustomed to carrying its weight around
2. The extra weight is held tight to the body (vs. hanging over on the side)
3. Our body fat is distributed throughout our body.

A backpack, on the other hand, is a foreign object that hangs off of us. The closer a weight is to our body, the easier it is to carry around. Since body fat is in our body, nothing could be easier to carry. Your one-kilo sneakers strapped on your backpack are more stressful to carry than one-kilo of body fat in your waist.

However, how often have you seen this: the hiker who is 30 pounds overweight obsessing about shaving off an ounce from his toothbrush or using titanium stakes?

I feel rude pointing out that he would do better shaving off 10 pounds from his tummy!

Obesity is common in my family, but I’ve always been active and thin. To make up for my lack of personal knowledge, I’ve asked many backpackers who have lost weight to describe how the weight loss impacted their backpacking experiences.

The vast majority said that backpacking was much easier once they lost weight. However, some thought that compared to other forms of exercise backpacking isn’t particularly conducive to losing weight. Still, we do it not just for physical reasons, but also for mental and spiritual reasons too.

I may be an expert on packing ridiculously light, but I’d love to hear from those of you who have experienced the difference between backpacking with a gut and without a gut.

In conclusion, if you must obsess with losing weight, focus on your body before your backpack. Your body will thank you and you’ll enjoy more years of trekking through the wilderness.

Francis Tapon is the author of Hike Your Own Hike: 7 Life Lessons from Backpacking Across America. He has walked across America four times and visited over 80 countries. He was the first guy to yo-yo the Continental Divide Trail. Francis also thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail and Appalachian Trail southbound.

Related posts:

1. Dropping Pounds to Drop Pounds—Lightweight Backpacking and Weight Loss

Disclosure: ScrewPopTool provided HuskyHiker.com with a complementary ScrewPopTool for this review. However, This product review is based on first hand experience and not biased due to receiving free merchandise.

Related posts:

1. Product Review: Katadyn Pocket Microfilter
2. Product Review: GUTR Ultimate Sweatband

(Author’s Note: I use a few keywords in the place of actual names as the names are interchangeable. This is for every outdoors-man and almost every #sport# out there.)

You will read many articles/books/magazines on #SPORT# and most will emphasize not skimping on the gear and equipment you will use. While this is true for specific sports (rock-climbing, for instance), most of the gear tends to be variable based on budget and does not have to be the latest and greatest pieces you read about in #SPORT# magazine. If you are truly a beginner, you may not have even experienced #SPORT# and need to identify if you are truly cut out for it.

Whether you are truly a beginner, or an intermediate or advanced outdoors-man on a budget, there are several possible sources we do not consider when purchasing clothing, footwear, gear and equipment. The purpose of this article is to remind you of the other opportunities waiting out there.

THRIFT STORES
Yes, I said thrift stores. Sure, you can buy the top-of-the-line fashionable clothing and footwear for #SPORT#, but what is the product’s condition after your first outing? Are they still pristine as when you found them on that high-dollar rack? Have you just had your first experience and found you have no interest in continuing #SPORT# and wonder why you threw all that money into clothing that will end up in the garage?

I recently hit up a few stores and managed to get two Columbia shirts, one REI branded shirt, and a Field & Stream shirt, all for less than $20 combined. These were a steal considering not one of them would have been found for less than $20 individually at most retail stores.

THE STAND-ALONE DEPARTMENT STORE
Some of those high-volume, low-price stores have decent products for the beginner that does not hurt the wallet. Honestly, if you find you are really into #SPORT#, you will throw down the money later for the real serious stuff and keep the cheaper stuff for other uses.

I was planning for my first hiking trip and happened upon a clearance rack at Target. I did not go looking for hiking shoes (my wife was looking for something for herself) and I saw them… a pair of Cherokee hiking shoes, exactly my size, only pair they had and I walked out of there with my first hiking shoes for only $6. I have since bought better ones, but not spent much more. I just knew when I found those shoes that I was going hiking and my plans truly solidified.

ONLINE OUTFITTERS (specifically, their outlet/clearance section)
Watch these websites regularly if you are trying to net that one canoe, backpack, cooking gear that would complete your next #SPORT# trip. There can be some fantastic deals if you know where to look. And many offer free shipping to a nearby bricks-and-mortar store.

PAWN SHOPS
This is not a bad place to find some special gear for your next #SPORT# trip. Rock climbing gear, rafting equipment, high-end backpacks, all can be pawned off and you can be the lucky owner of what you need for a fraction of the retail price. Just do a little reading up to be sure the gear is actually complete and not missing key components.

I would like to take up canoeing or rafting and plan on looking into pawn shops (the next item on my list will actually be my first place to look).

CRAIGSLIST or FREECYCLE or #OtherFreeAdSite#.com
This is one of the best methods of getting gear you need for that next trip (or the one after that). Not only is it usually nearby, but you can negotiate some great deals. In many cases, it will be cheaper than through the pawn shops, and the equipment may be very well kept (you can sometimes judge that by the appearance of the home).

BRICK-AND-MORTAR OUTFITTER RENTALS
Let us not forget that many of these outfitters understand that we may not be ready to lay down the cash for a new sport and provide the ability for you to rent some of the larger pieces of equipment (kayaks, boats and canoes come to mind). This can save your #SPORT# trip budget for other necessities and allow for you to try some of the better gear before you buy.

OFF-SEASON PURCHASES
(This one was suggested by my wife and I had completely forgot that I do this one a lot). If you know ahead of time that you plan on your first #sport# trip next year, try to catch the gear you need on sale/clearance as it becomes out-of-season. This is an excellent way to catch short-sleeve shirts as fall approaches and long sleeves come out and vice-versa. I don’t know how many times I’ve purchased clothing that I wasn’t going to wear for 6 months, but knew I would when that season came round again.

WORDS OF CAUTION
The only necessity you do not get with these purchases (except in the case of the department store, online outfitters clearance or rentals) is a warranty in case of damage, missing parts, etc.

If you have a chance, look up online the exact item and find out what gear/parts should come with the equipment. Then, you will know if a part is missing or something is actually damaged or completely broken. If missing, they may be able to locate it before you drive all the way to purchase it, or it may get discounted to a point where you are willing to live without the missing (AND noncritical) part or can replace it on your own.

CONCLUSION
Whatever you do, if you have the true desire to pursue #SPORT# and the ability to pay top-notch, then, by all means, get the best stuff you can buy because it may save your life if it is one of the more extreme sports. If not, use caution, be better prepared, and budget for the beefier options in a later purchase.

Just do not forget there are these options out there for the budget-conscious and when you decide to stop #SPORT#, or you do purchase the better gear, do your fellow budgeted outdoors-man or outdoors-woman a favor and post the older (but well-cared-for) equipment on Craigslist or at your local pawn store. Pay it forward, in a sense.

Sorry, no related posts.

Katadyn Pocket

I have been thinking about getting a water filter for awhile now, running out of water on a hike can make the last few miles true hell.  I figure if I can carry a filter for the same weight as an extra bottle of water that is a good trade off… www.allfilters.com contacted me about reviewing a filter and I jumped at the chance.  All Filters sells all types of filters ranging from whole house filters to compact backpacking and camping filters. I went with the Katadyn Pocket because of its durability. I have heard some not so good stories about the hiker pro that most carry, what good is a piece of gear if it fails!

The Pocket is more expensive than most ($289) but it is the only filter with a 20 year guarantee. This thing is built tough, I mean really really tough.  It is mostly aluminum with a plastic outer sleeve. Very solid and easy to maintain. The ceramic filter element is good for 13,000 gallons, so basically forever.

When the box arrived I was excited to open it up and check it out. The Filter comes with a carry bag, a tube with a pre-filter, a output tube with a clip to connect to the container you are filling, a plastic bag for the output tube so it does not get contaminated, and a maintenance kit. Before even looking at the manual I quickly took it apart to see how it worked, it is super easy to disassemble and reassemble for in field maintenance. The manual tells you to flush the pump by filtering a liter of water to flush the ceramic dust from the manufacturing process.  This is a must do step, the fist liter of water was very cloudy and kind of stinky. I ran a second liter through it and it was nice and clear.

Pre-filtered Water

For my first test I decided to scoop up some water from a local river the Mill River. I would never think of even taking a sip of the water out of this river. I set up the filter and started pumping away, each pump moved a fair bit of water and the pump moves with little resistance. The filtered water was clear. It did just what I expected it to do. This filter filters down to 0.2 microns because of their size no micro-organisms can pass through the mini pores of the filter ceramic ( 0.2 microns = 0.0002 mm).  The Katadyn Pocket Microfilter eliminates bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments, and reduces viruses (but will not eliminate them) in combination with particles greater than 0.2 microns meeting EPA Purifier Standards.

Filtered Water

My second test was on a day hike.  I filtered 32oz from a trail side stream.  The water was flowing good after recent rains. The filter made quick work of 32oz of water, the filter rate for this filter is a liter a minute and that seems pretty accurate. I drank the full 32oz on my way out it’s been a couple weeks with no ill effects so I guess it works…

It weighs in at 20oz so it is slightly less than the full extra bottle of water I would normally carry. So as long as my destination has a good water source I will be carrying my Katadyn Pocket for piece of mind.

Disclosure: AllFilter.com provided HuskyHiker.com with a complementary Katadyn Pocket Microfilter for this review. However, This product review is based on first hand experience and not biased due to receiving free merchandise.

.

.

.

Related posts:

1. Product Review: GUTR Ultimate Sweatband

Here are my top 5 FREE hiking apps for android:

1. Hi-HikerPro

Hi-Hiker Pro is a all in one tool which is really all the different devices needed on the trail. It includes a pedometer, stopwatch, compass, flashlight, maps, altimeter, GPS tracking, weather forecast and emergency call. You can save your different sessions and import/export your trips as a GPX files to visualize your them on Google Earth.

2. My Tracks

My Tracks developed by google enables you to record GPS tracks and view live statistics – such as time, speed, distance, and elevation. Once recorded, you can share your tracks, upload them to Google Spreadsheets and visualize them on Google My Maps.

3. Peak.AR

Peak.AR offers a panoramic augmented reality view of the surrounding peaks. It uses the compass and GPS receiver in the phone to let you know what peaks you are looking at and how far away they are. Sometimes lacks accuracy but still pretty neat.

4. AlpineQuest GPS Hiking (Lite)

AlpineQuest GPS Hiking (Lite) is a maps program, you can store maps on your SD card so they can be accessed without network access. USGS TOPO maps can be made and saved via the AlpineQuest website. AlpineQuest will also track your route and allow you to save waypoints if you buy the full version of the app.

5. Wheres My Droid

Not really made for hiking but I’m including it here because it is a great tool for loved ones. With Wheres My Droid you can set up a phrase so when it is text to you it will auto reply with your location. I like this because Miss HuskyHiker can see where I am on the trail as long as I have network access. Great peice of mind for loved ones if you often hike alone.

And always remember to keep your phone on silent when hiking, nothing is worse than a ringing phone in the middle of the woods especially when you are trying to snap a shot of a deer or neat bird on the trail…

Sorry, no related posts.

GUTR Sweatband

When I felt the headband I was surprised at how soft the PVC material is. It is super flexible and light weight, the side that is against your head is very smooth and if fitted properly will not leave any marks on your head after it is removed.  It works by channeling the sweat away from your eyes to the sides of your face via the channel in the gutter. Fitting was easy, the sweatband comes with three elastic bands for sizing and velcro for fine fit adjustments. You want a snug fit, not tight,  just enough not to move.

I used it on a couple 5 mile hikes in 90 degree plus weather and humid, this summer in New England was been brutal.  It really works I don’t care if I look like a dork… No more burning eyes, no more trying to find a dry spot of shirt to wipe my eyes. Awesome! I have tried hats, bandannas, cloth headbands, they all make me feel hotter and I end up just taking them off… Not once have I felt like I needed to remove the GUTR. It is a great feeling to have sweat pouring down the sides of your face but not in your eyes.  No matter how filthy it gets a simple wash in soap in water cleans it right up.

If you are a sweater like me I highly recommend the Sweat GUTR Headband, Husky Hiker seal of approval!

Even if you hate it Sweat GUTR will let you return it for a full refund as long as you let them know why… so don’t sweat it…

Disclosure: GUTR provided HuskyHiker.com with a complementary GUTR Sweatband for this review. However, This product review is based on first hand experience and not biased due to receiving free merchandise.

Sorry, no related posts.

Photo by: Darren Lone Fight

Guest post by Darren Lone Fight
Want to be a guest poster on HuskyHiker.com?  E-mail me

Day Hiking, Multi-Day Hiking, and Weight

Getting outside and enjoying the outdoors is a great way to maintain and increase fitness levels, burn calories, and has the potential to be a very enjoyable hobby. Nevertheless, the enjoyment can be quickly lost when you’re lugging a pack, pouring sweat, and trying to remember why it is you’re on a trail in the first place. Lowering pack weight, then, becomes a very important component to maximizing your enjoyment of the outdoors and create a positive, healthy experience that you’ll want to repeat in the future. Hiking with a backpack falls very generally into two categories: day hiking and multi-day hiking.

Day hikers don’t need to carry such items as a tent or a sleeping bag, but the pack itself and whatever other supplies that are brought along with the hiker might weigh anywhere from 2-10+ pounds. While this weight is not negligible, it is nevertheless a significantly lighter weight than the average multi-day pack. This article will focus primarily on reducing weight in the larger packs of a multi-day hiker, but most of the general points made here can apply to a lesser degree to the day hiker as well.

For a multi-day hike, one has to carry many supplies for daily use. I’ll be speaking here of a weekend trip, since this is the kind of backpacking trip most of us are able to fit into our schedule (not to exclude the bearded and smelly Appalachian Trail thru-hikers and other multi-week and multi-month hikers). This means a half-day Friday, Saturday, and half-day Sunday (or roughly two full days of supplies). A Base-pack weight for a multi-day hike of this nature includes the “Big Three” of backpacking: the pack itself, sleeping system (sleeping pad/bag), and shelter system (tent, tarp, etc.).

The (Other) Things We Carry

On top of this base-pack, a backpacker will often carry: a first-aid kit, food, water, a compass, whistle, GPS, knife, cooking system, map, clothes, water purification system, light (headlamp/flashlight/lanterns), camera/electronics, etc., etc. Obviously this list grows quite long very quickly, and it is not uncommon to see multi-day pack weigh 30 pounds or more, even for such a short trip. The “best” equipment in each of these categories is fiercely debated, but this post will take simplicity and utility as a guiding principle to organize and revise how we plan for a multi-day hike. In this scenario, we’re looking for our pack to be 20 pounds or less fully packed including food (excluding water). 20 pounds is the ceiling, but 10-15 pounds should be readily attainable. This process of winnowing pack and equipment weight in order to decrease overall weight and increase enjoyment is known as lightweight backpacking or ultra-light backpacking depending on how “ultra” you get about cutting weight: If you’re counting half-ounces when weighing your individual pieces of equipment and sawing the bottom half off of your toothbrush to save weight, it’s safe to say you’re “ultra.”

Perhaps the most common mistake made by hikers who are preparing for a short -weekend trip in the middle of summer is that they pack like they’re going on a two-week trek in the middle of winter. Bring only what you need and prepare for what you can reasonably expect! I’ve seen a fellow backpacker, bent at the waist and red-faced, hauling enough equipment, food, and water to feed and shelter himself and everyone in our crew for at least a week! He had an enormous tent, food for miles, and he was paying for it with every trembling, labored step he took on the trail.

The relationship between food and packing can actually make hiking even more useful for weight-loss; it’s good exercise, yes, but it can also teach us important lessons about portion sizing and the relationship between calories and exercise. Before a trip, you’ll need to determine the amount of miles that will be hiked and calculate the food necessary for the trip. If you’re going to cover five miles a day (10mi.), depending on weight, one would burn at least 4,000 calories a day in hiking alone (not including basal metabolism). This means the amount of food one would need to bring to replace every calorie would easily be close to 7,000! To calculate for weight loss, one would adjust the replacement calories down from these totals, and when you’ve got to pack each of those calories into a backpack and wear it on your back, you will begin to get a better sense of how much food that really is and make decisions on what and how much to bring accordingly! Even more, when you’ve got to be sure to portion your foods out correctly because you can’t run to the grocery store if you eat it too quickly, you’ll begin to necessarily harden your resolve about portioning.

While monitoring and portioning food may sound like a less-than-fun part of hiking, I’ve found that when out hiking trails, food becomes less of a central concern and more of a functional activity: we eat because we need fuel to keep walking and enjoying our hike. This doesn’t mean that good, warm, and healthy food shouldn’t be enjoyed on the trail, but that hiking holds entertaining or interesting wildlife, incredible vistas, and other beautiful flora and fauna that you’ll (hopefully) be too excited about what’s around the next bend to be too worried about food other than to refuel the tank!

Dropping Weight and the Lightweight Pack

So, aside from the more psychological components of food portioning and its relationship to physical activity, calorie burn, etc., there is the basic equipment list of a lightweight pack that will allow you to spend more time enjoying your hike and less time wishing your back and shoulders weren’t screaming at you. Examine the following suggestions as you take a look at your own pack and see where you might be able to make cuts. I have provided some links to places where you can buy ultralight or lightweight gear, but don’t feel as though this is an activity that you should “buy” your way into: paring down backpack weight in order to have a more enjoyable outdoor experience is about finding ways to do more with less. Sometimes this can best be attained by purchasing something, but very often what is needed is some DIY trimming, sewing, or construction or an honest appraisal of what is really needed in the backcountry.

The Big Three—This is the place to find the biggest/easiest weight savings. Right now, I’m using an old Swiss Gear backpack that I had for school. It had a waist strap, so I hand-stitched more straps to lash a sleeping bag, tent, etc. to the pack, and I use this for most of my weekend multi-day hikes. It weighs in fully packed with tent, pad, bag, food, etc. (minus water) at about 15 pounds. My wife uses a canvas, no-frame pack we found at a garage sale for $2 (it does have a waist/chest strap). Her whole pack weighs about 11 pounds, and the knee pain she used to suffer from lugging a 30+ pound pack around has gone away. Whatever you get, make it light and comfortable. Gossamer Gear (http://www.gossamergear.com/) makes a wide selection of very light gear, including packs, bags, and tents. Most major pack brands (Osprey, Gregory, etc.) all have ultra-light and lightweight models as well that you should look into for your next pack purchase. Ideally you’d like a pack that weighs in at under two pounds. Nevertheless, go with what you’re familiar with and what is most comfortable, just be sure you pay special attention to weight.

A sleeping bag can be replaced by a good, lightweight quilt (you really only use the insulation on the top part of the sleeping bag anyway when you sleep on a pad). I still use a bag, but I have cut out the stuffing on the bottom side of my sleeping bag and sewn back up the cells. This allows my sleeping bag to pack down to a very small and light size. Finally, I use an old, A-frame, single-wall tent which, with poles and stakes, weighs less than 3 pounds. This sleeps me and my wife (and very little else) and is basically a glorified bivy. Speaking of Bivy’s, they’re actually a good option for a tent as well. All-in-one hammocks, such as the Hennessy Hammock (http://hennessyhammock.com/), are a good third-way option (tent/bag/pad all in one!).

The Other Stuff— Look into getting an alcohol stove (http://zenstoves.net/Stoves.htm) and using it as your primary cooking system. Keep your food simple: lots of gorp/jerky/trail-food, couscous, freeze-dried foods, and other add-boiling-water foods. Be prepared to purify and treat water rather than attempt to haul 2-3 gallons (this will add 25 pounds to your weight alone). For purification I would suggest a combination of the AquaMira Frontier Pro (http://www.aquamira.com/) and a chemical treatment, either iodine or chlorine dioxide (I prefer the latter). Bring one LED headlamp for light. It will be more than enough (you should be sleeping at night anyway!). Lightweight multi-compass/ruler/etc.. Skip the non-essential electronics. Use only a closed-cell, ¾-length sleeping pad rather than an inflatable system. One small pot, one large mug-bowl, and one spoon. Buy a small, waterproof first-aid kit appropriate for your trips. Use light-weight and small containers (I like Platypus Bottles: http://www.cascadedesigns.com/platypus) to hold your water.

These suggestions certainly aren’t all-encompassing, but they should get you started towards a lighter weight pack and a better experience on the trails.

Finally, Philosophy.

Backpacking provides an enjoyable and healthy pastime for people who enjoy the outdoors, and is made all the more enjoyable the less weight we have to carry around. More than this, the process of stripping weight down is done most effectively by looking to get rid of extraneous or unnecessary items and by maximizing the utility of our equipment. In the first move, we must examine our own mental categories of “necessity” and “luxury.” It can be difficult to let go of the three-room tent and blow-up air mattress, but remember that the glory of the trail is found on the trail; when you’re attempting to be out in nature and enjoy a good long hike, it’s important to remember that we’re there to enjoy the raw natural beauty of the environment and not attempt to import the necessities of our daily lives (obviously in the “real world” my pillow-top bed is a necessity. It simply is.) into the great outdoors. Necessities have to shift when we’re on the trail. What is a necessity at home (refrigerator, toilet, infinite water, etc.) can be impossible in the backcountry. This shift will help you trim down and simplify your backpacking experience, but it will also heighten your appreciation of your daily-life luxuries when you get back from a hike. No hot shower and short nap in a comfy bed has ever felt better than after a multi-day hike.

The second philosophy of utility is about finding ways to get the most out of equipment. I know hikers that use only a tarp for a tent system, which also doubles as a poncho in a pinch. We don’t have to be quite as radical as that: using a spoon for most all utensil needs instead of bringing a full compliment is one example of this sort of utility; using a stuff-sack with your clothes in it as a pillow instead of bringing a separate pillow is another: these little tricks are simply ways of getting more out of less equipment by removing redundancy where you may not have realized it was present. Such small tweaks often help save significant space and/or weight by allowing for items to be used for multiple purposes. Small changes in how we perceive the functionality of our gear can lead to large savings in both weight and space, and the smartest cuts/utility uses/modifications of your gear will come from your own examination and reflection on the role your gear plays in your backpacking excursions. Look for redundancies in your gear that can be remedied with increasing the scope or role of another piece of similar (or modified) gear.

Finally, this is really all about locating an aesthetic which treasures non-excess, simplicity, and utility. This often flies in the face of how we live our daily lives, and yet there are important lessons to be learned from this outdoors paradigm. These reorientations run through the heart of the lightweight and ultra-lightweight backpacking philosophies, and they can also inform weight-loss strategy as well. As I’ve mentioned previously, the relationship such backpacking creates between a hiker, his body, his “fuel,” and his activity is invaluable in creating an awareness of the interdependence at the heart of any endeavor to lose weight, and is a necessary awareness to truly begin to manage calorie intake and exercise/physical activity in a meaningful manner. When you can translate a bag of chips into the several miles/hours of hiking it contains in energy in a meaningful sense, you’ll hopefully begin to have a better sense of the relationship between energy/calories and what, say, 1,000 calories translates to in real, physical terms.

Ultimately, weight loss works best when it comes while doing something you enjoy. I hope that some of these tips and ideas help make your next hiking trip more about enjoying your beautiful surroundings and less about enduring the physical pain of an unnecessarily large and/or heavy pack. Stripping your gear and pack down to the essentials and focusing on the enjoyment of the experience itself will help you not only enjoy your hike, but enjoy the pounds you’ve shed off your body because of the pounds you’ve shed off your pack!

Darren is a Youth Conservation Corps supervisor for the Trustees of Reservations (http://www.thetrustees.org/), a PhD student in the humanities at UMass, and a free-lance writer and reporter. He hikes primarily in Western Massachusetts and Southern Vermont and is preparing for a hike across the state of Massachusetts (north-south) at the end of the summer. He can be reached at: darrenlonefight@gmail.com Please put “Huskyhiker.com” in the subject line.

Related posts:

1. A Shout Out to Some Inspirational Weight Loss Bloggers.
2. Back in the Swing with Weight Watchers
3. Weight in Week 8 & More

Silver Springs Park

First I want let you know this is not going to be a technical review (go to stevesdigicams if you want that), this is going to be a review that I feel the average shopper can find useful…

I bought this camera because I wanted something  I could take hiking, camping, kayaking, and use every day and not have to worry about it.  The Stylus SW line is a water proof line of cameras. The 1050 is water proof up to 10 feet and can be used in temperatures below freezing.  The 1030sw is good to 33 feet and adds a shock rating  to withstand falls from 6 feet.  But you will have to spend about a hundred extra bucks for the features.

Silver River State Park

The 1050sw is a 10.1 MP a few of the reviews I read said that the camera might not perform as well as other 10MP cameras.  If this is the case it works just fine for me.  Most of the pictures I take have been along the trail and it seems to

Under Water in the Silver River

do just fine. The camera has a ton of scene options, I find myself using landscape, landscape with subject, and snow & beach the most.  It also has a panoramic mode that give you 3 different methods of combining them. The Stylus 1050 SW also has a tap feature that allows you to change various settings by tapping on the sides or top of the camera. This

Justin Throwing the Net

is a great option to have when you are all bundled up for the cold.  Most of the pictures on this site have been taken with the Olympus Stylus 1050sw.

The only thing that I don’t like about this camera is the fact the it used a XD media card.  Well, you can use a micro SD card but you can’t use most of the special scene features in the camera.  I have a 2 GB XD card and even at 10MP fine quality I can fit over 400 pictures on the card.  I have never ran in to a storage problem.

I think for the price this is a great worry free camera.  I love it because if you take it

camping or to the beach and it gets dirty you just have to wash it off.  When I was at the beach I could take it with me in the water and not worry about it. Take pictures in the rain without a problem…

Worry free…

Sorry, no related posts.

Ion Mask is Waterproof

Ion Mask is a liquid repelling shield. It changes the surface on the product at a molecular level and liquid just “beads” on the surface and runs off.  Ion Mask can be applied to just about anything and does not affect there function or feel.  P2i is the company behind Ion Mask and they have partnered up with the footwear maker High-Tec. High-Tec is already offering the V-Lite Altitude Ultra WPI boots with the Ion Mask process applied.  In the Ion Mask tech papers they clam that Ion Mask was put through some rigorous tests like flex and abrasion tests and it looks like it performed well.

Ion Mask can also be used on consumer electronics. Just think things like MP3 players,

Ion Mask can be applied to electronics

cell phones, digital cameras, and laptops could all be waterproof.  The coating affects the surface to a depth of nanometers, it reduces the surface energy so that liquids can not cling or be absorbed by it.  They claim that the process does not effect the operation of power and usb ports.  I hope more companies jump on board and give it a shot so we can see if this really works… I hope it does…

Sorry, no related posts.

photo by M.Prinke

Now that the cold is here it has got me thinking about snowshoeing.  When you go to the store looking for snowshoes they come in every size, color, and style you can imagine.  I hope I can help you leave the store with a pair that will work for you…

How snowshoes work

Snowshoes allow you to walk on top of snow by spreading your weight over a bigger surface area.  This will allow you to hike, run and climb even in the deepest powder you can find.  The general rule of thumb is the heaver the person or the drier the snow requires a larger snowshoe.

Picking the right snowshoe

First thing you need to look at is usage. Things to consider – How often will they be used, type of snow you get in your area most (dry or wet), how far will you be hiking, how much gear you will be carrying.  All these will help you pick a snowshoe matched for your usage.

How often will they be used/how far will you be hiking – If you are only going to be hiking 3-4 times a year and not hiking deep in the bush you can get away with a recreational snowshoe. If you plan on hiking deep in the woods, climbing steep terrain, or using them every weekend you might want to look into a more rugged snowshoe. Both rugged hiking and recreational snowshoes will look the same the only difference is how they are build and how much they cost.  A rugged hiking snowshoe will be made with a higher grade aluminum frame and stronger hardware but will come with a much higher price tag ($200+).  The recreational snowshoe will be plenty strong for casual use and can typically be found for between $100 and $200.

Once you have decided on a type, next step figuring out what size you need.

snowshoes are sized by weight.   This is how much you weight with boots, coat, pack and all the gear you plan to have with you.

Here is a general size chart:

Keep in mind this is just a starting point and snow type will play a huge factor in size. If you fall right on the edge of a size go with the smaller size.  Smaller snowshoes are much more maneuverable.

• Wet snow = smaller snowshoe
• dry sow = larger snowshoe

Bindings

Bindings are the most important part of the snowshoe. You want bindings that will remain pliable in cold weather and that are easy to strap in to and tighten up with gloves on.

Other things to look at: The binding will pivot on the frame by a rod or a rubberized strap or two.  The rod pivot system will allow the snowshoe tail to drop (and drag) with every step. This keeps snow from building up on the top of the webbing and you won’t be kicking snow up with every step. The strap binding system still pivots just not as freely as the rod system.

I would suggest trying to find an outfitter or someplace that rents snowshoes (cross country ski resorts, some golf courses do this in the winter) or a demo day at a local outfitter and try different types and styles to see what works best for you.     Just remember if you can walk you can snowshoe!

Sorry, no related posts.

Every boot I try on just doesn’t feel right.  I tried on Scarpas but they were big and they only had two sizes smaller and who knows when they are going to place an order to restock them.  So I think I am going to head back out tomorrow and see what I can find.  I might just look into some waterproof mid/high light hikers.  Well I guess I will go read some reviews and expand what I have been looking at hopefuly I will find something.  I did pick up some trekking today at ems for 50% off.  I have always wanted to try them out to see if I like them but never wanted to drop 80+ bucks on a pair so the sale worker out good, I’ll let you know what you think.

Sorry, no related posts.