Geocaching is an outdoor sporting activity in which the participants use a Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver or mobile device and other navigational techniques to hide and seek containers, called “geocaches” or “caches”, anywhere in the world.

A typical cache is a small waterproof container containing a logbook where the geocacher enters the date they found it and signs it with their established code name. Larger containers such as plastic storage containers (Tupperware or similar) or ammunition boxes can also contain items for trading, usually toys or trinkets of little value. Geocaching is often described as a “game of high-tech hide and seek”, sharing many aspects with benchmarking, trigpointing, orienteering, treasure-hunting, and letterboxing.

Archive

Archiving a cache removes the listing from public view. This action is usually taken when a cache owner does not intend to replace a cache after it has been removed. As an alternative to archiving, the cache owner can temporarily disable their cache if they plan to provide maintenance on the cache or replace the container within one month.

Benchmark

Using your GPS unit and/or written directions provided by NOAA’s National Geodetic Survey (NGS), you can seek out NGS survey markers and other items that have been marked in the USA.

BYOP

Bring Your Own Pen/Pencil. An acronym often used by cache owners to communicate to other geocachers that you will need to bring your writing utensil in order to sign the cache logbook.

CITO

Cache In Trash Out is an ongoing environmental initiative supported by the worldwide geocaching community. Since 2002, geocachers have been dedicated to cleaning up parks and other cache-friendly places around the world.

DNF

Did Not Find. An acronym used by geocachers to state that they did not find a cache. This is also a type of online log on Geocaching.com and is useful for alerting cache owners of potential issues. Cache owners who repeatedly receive “Did Not Find” logs should check to see that there cache has not been removed.

D/T

Geocaches are rated in two categories, each designated on a 5-point scale. Difficulty relates to the mental challenge of finding a cache and terrain describes the physical environment. A 1/1 difficulty/terrain rating would the easiest cache to find, while a 5/5 difficulty/terrain rating would be the most difficult.

FTF

First to Find. An acronym written by geocachers in physical cache logbooks or online when logging cache finds to denote being the first to find a new geocache.

Ground Zero (GZ)

The point where your GPS device shows that you have reached the cache location. At Ground Zero, you are zero feet (or zero meters) away from your destination.

Muggle

A non-geocacher. Based on “Muggle” from the Harry Potter series, which is a non-magical person. Usually this term is used after a non geocacher looks puzzled after befriending a geocacher searching for a cache, or when a non-geocacher accidentally finds a cache. Geomuggles are mostly harmless.

SWAG

An acronym often referred to as standing for ‘Stuff We All Get.” It includes the trade items left in caches by geocachers.

TFTC

Thanks For The Cache. An acronym written by geocachers in physical cache logbooks or online when logging cache finds.

TFTH

Thanks For The Hide

TNLN

Took Nothing. Left Nothing. Usually written in cache logbooks by geocachers who do not trade for material contents in a cache.

TNLNSL / TNSL

Took Nothing. Left Nothing. Signed Logbook / Took Nothing. Signed Logbook.

TOTT

Tools of the Trade. An acronym used for any of the tools that might be used to search for/retrieve/find/log a geocache.

For more info on geocaching or to get caching head over to geocaching.com 

At first I found all the same companies that I found on my last search with some new ones that just didn’t seem to have the quality or look I wanted. So I turned to twitter, geoseaeye said I should check out www.adstuit.com. I checked out Fred’s site and was not sure what I thought, it was hard to tell the quality from the pictures on his site, but the prices are great… (100 for $30, 250 for $50 0r even 1000 for $100) Prices are for double sided with custom graphics.  I emailed Fred and asked about better pictures and he had none to offer.  Still unsure I sat on it for a while… One night I sent Fred my design and asked how he though it would print, he said that it looked like it would come out great and asked if I wanted to see a proof. Well 20 minutes later saw my proof and placed my order and I am glad I did.   Fred was awesome to work with and they got the wooden nickles to my door in under a week!  They came out great!!! Thanks Fred!   If you are in the market for wooden nickels (they are so neat) without a doubt see Fred at Ads-Tuit and tell him Husky Hiker sent you!!!

So here are the nickels

My Nickel

P.S. Any geocachers want to trade wooden nickels please contact me…

Deer at the Quabbin

Had to cut todays hike a bit short due to a late start and the park closing at 6:30.  The hike from Enfield Lookout is a nice little loop with moderate elevation changes.  The hike takes you along the shore of the Quabbin Reservoir (yelow blazes).  This loop also offers 3 geocaches to be found if that is yor thing.  Many more can be found in the area i you want to make a day of it…

I want to go back and do the full loop (6 miles) soon and I will post more with that trip.

• What is geocaching (part 1)
• What equipment you need to get started (part 2)
• Now What – Finding caches on line (part 3)
• Picking a good first cache to hunt (part 4)
• The hunt (part 5)
• Caching with kids (part 6)
• Advanced geocaching (part 7)

(Part 7) Advanced Geocaching

If I did a super in depth post about even some of the “advanced caching practices” it could fill a book…  Here I am going to give you the jist of it and give you a link to go learn more. so here we go…

Travel Bugs and Geocoins – Travel Bugs attach to an item and are tracked at geocaching.com.   They move from cache to cache (not for you to keep). When you take a travel bug out of a cache you enter the tracking code on the geocaching website and then you report on the cache page when you drop it off.  Geocoins are the same for the most part just they are coin like.  more on travel bugs -   more on geocoins

Paperless Caching -  Paperless caching is just that geocaching without paper. When most people start out caching they print out the cache pages to take with them… This can be a bit much if you plan on trying to find multible caches in a day (cache run).  So people have turned to using PDAs to store the cache data.  You can read more about paperless caching here & a two part how to here (part 1) (part 2)

Geocaching Bags - Most cachers have a caching bag.  Some have this bag with them at all times and in this bag you will find everything would ever need to find a cache plus some.  You can read more about what you might find in a caching bag here

Multi Stage Caches and Puzzle Caches – These caches are a little harder than your normal cache…  Multi Stage caches you have to visit multiple caches to get the location of a final cache location. and Puzzle Caches off a puzzle that has to be solved to get the location of the cache.  You can read all about the different cache types here

That wraps up my how to on caching…

Here is a list of geocache blogs for you to visit if you wish to learn more…

• GeoCache I’m Not Obsessed Right
• Slim Cache
• Hellolost & Saz’s Geocaching Adventure
• Northwoods GeoCats
• Parabola’s Blog
• So You Wanna Go Geocaching
• HeadHardHat’s Ingenious Cache Inventor
• Geocaching Geochronicle
• Geocaching Journal
• Adventure Monkey Goes Geocaching
• Headshot119′s Geocaching Blog
• Adventures In Geocaching

• What is geocaching (part 1)
• What equipment you need to get started (part 2)
• Now What – Finding caches on line (part 3)
• Picking a good first cache to hunt (part 4)
• The hunt (part 5)
• Caching with kids (part 6)
• Advanced geocaching (part 7)

Photo by cmiked

(Part 6) – Caching with kids

Geocaching with kids can be tons of fun and educational for kids. Keeping them interested might be a bit of a challenge. I am going to share a few tips that I might help.

Kids these days are very good with computer so let them be part of the of every part of the hunt even learning to use the GPS, finding the cache on line, the hunt, and logging the cache.  It will be more rewarding for them. The most important thing is letting your kids find the cache, even if you spot it let them find it. If they are having a hard time give them hints until they find it. Also when it comes trading items you should teach them it is not about what is in the cache it is about the hunt, and being out in the woods.  Some caches bring you to places of great history teach your kids the history of the area. Make sure that when you head out that you are extra prepared. Bring water, bug repellent, sun screen, snacks, ect.  This stuff will help keep kids happy when the times are getting tough on the hunt…

Things to remember:

• Let them find it
• Let the kids be pare of every aspect of the caching experience
• Teach them about leave no trace
• Teach them item trading is not all that caching is about
• Go prepared

Part 7 – Coming Soon!

• What is geocaching (part 1)
• What equipment you need to get started (part 2)
• Now What – Finding caches on line (part 3)
• Picking a good first cache to hunt (part 4)
• The hunt (part 5)
• Caching with kids (part 6)
• Advanced geocaching (part 7)

Photo by René Ehrhardt

(Part 5) – The Hunt

Drive near the cache you are trying to find… With your GPS on and satellites found you will want to select the cache waypoint.  This will once again vary by model but you should be able to do it from the map screen or the main menu by choosing waypoints.  After you select the waypoint (geocache) you want to find it should take you to the navigational compass screen. It will have an arrow (that points in the direction of the cache you are looking for) and some data fields that you can customize.

So here is where it gets fun, At the very least you should be looking at an arrow and distance on the screen.  Walk in the distance that it is telling you to go.  When you get close, around 20-30 feet start looking for a hidden cache.  Places to check, base of trees, in downed logs, the the crevices of large rocks.  Once you find a few you will know where to look.  Most times the hiding place will look just a little to unnatural, like a pile of sticks, or a leaning log, ect.  If you are having a hard time you can decode the hint on the cache page, if that still doesn’t help just move on try the next one and come back for that one after you find a few… Hey! look there you found it! Congrats! Now open it up sign the log check out the contents.  Remember you DON’T have to trade items and if you do ALWAYS TRADE UP leave something or equal or greater value to keep the cache contents alive.  Next when you get home you have to log your find on geocaching.com.  Go back to the cache page on the website (did you save that paper you printed) and click on “log your visit” in the upper right corner.  Publish your log and move on to the next. Now you are HOOKED!

Part 6 – coming soon!

• What is geocaching (part 1)
• What equipment you need to get started (part 2)
• Now What – Finding caches on line (part 3)
• Picking a good first cache to hunt (part 4)
• The hunt (part 5)
• Caching with kids (part 6)
• Advanced geocaching (part 7)

Photo by LollyKnit

(Part 4) – Picking a good first cache to hunt:

All caches are rated 1-5 stars in difficulty and terrain. For your first hunt you are going to want to pick a cache with a low rating, something between 1 or 2 stars would be good. Also you are going to want to pick a cache with a larger container, no micro or small caches they will frustrate you in the hunt.  It would also be helpful to pick a cache that is away from populated areas this way you can have a leisurely hunt and not worry about muggles. A muggle is a non-geocacher, you want to make sure a muggle never sees you remove or replace a cache.  When a non-cacher sees someone remove a box from a secret hiding place and rummage through the contents and put it back in said hiding place it’s gets their curiosity flowing.  They will take it out, look it over, and hopefully realize what it is and put it back. But sometimes people are not so nice and the cache can become vandalized or stolen.  Now this location has been ruined for other players. Nothing is worse that coming to a muggled cache site and seeing cache contents strewn about and the cache container smashed to pieces.

Now that you have picked a cache lets get it loaded on your GPSr.  Different brands and models of GPS units have different loading instructions, it would be best to look at your user manual for loading waypoints to your specific model. Here I will just go over the basics…

The coordinate info is only available so I hope you signed up for that free account.  The coordinates of the cache are located at the top of the cache page just below the title and are formatted something like this “N 42° 21.138 W 072° 40.334” you can enter the coordinates in to your GPSr manually (did you read that manual?), or better yet you can download the GPX file and transfer it to your GPSr using the software that came with your unit. Even better yet if you have a Garmin GPSr you can download Garmin Plugin Communicator and use the “send to GPS” button and it will do all the work for you.

Now it would be a good idea to print the cache page. The info on the cache page will help you in the hunt once you get to the cache site as well as help you find the cache page again so you can log your visit on line after you find that cache…

Part 5 – comming soon!

• What is geocaching (part 1)
• What equipment you need to get started (part 2)
• Now What – Finding caches on line (part 3)
• Picking a good first cache to hunt (part 4)
• The hunt (part 5)
• Caching with kids (part 6)
• Advanced geocaching (part 7)

Cache Index Page

(Part 3) Now What – Finding caches on line

Next you need to sign up for an account over at geocaching.com. They offer both free and paid accounts, the free account gives you plenty of access to get started. You can get stated here.

Now lets find some caches on line now that you have your geocaching.com account.  Now that you are a geocaching.com member you can view full cache pages.  All the info you need to find the cache is on the caches page.

I would assume you want to find a cache close to your home or work. You can search for geocaches from the geocaching.com homepage by clicking on the “hide and seek a cache” button on the left of the page. From the “hide and seek” page you can search by address, zip code, state, country, latitude & longitude, keyword, area code, waypoint, found by user name, and hidden by user name.  I would search by address or zip code then click go.

This will bring you to the geocache search index page. This page lists all the caches in the area you searched closest being first.  Also on this page you will find the cache size, type, difficulty, cache title, last find date, and whether the cache contains a travel bug or geocoin (more on travel bugs or geocoins in part 7). Clicking on ant of the cache titles will bring you to the cache page. This is the page that has all the info you need to find the cache.  From the cache page you can do things such as, read logs from other users, view cache location in a map, get driving directions, and more.  I suggest browsing different cache pages to get the feel and learn the layout of the site.

Part 4 – Picking a good first cache to hunt

• What is geocaching (part 1)
• What equipment you need to get started (part 2)
• Now What – Finding caches on line (part 3)
• Picking a good first cache to hunt (part 4)
• The hunt (part 5)
• Caching with kids (part 6)
• Advanced geocaching (part 7)

Photo by RoyP

(Part 2) What do I need:

The only thing that you need is a GPSr.  You can get one as basic or as advanced as you would like, the only requirement being that you can input coordinates in to the GPS unit. Many cell phones now-a-days are GPS enabled and ca be used for geocaching.  A basic GPSr can be found for $100 or less, if you feel like you need more bells and whistles you can spend upwards of $500 or more.  Both will get you to the cache.  I recommend a handheldGPSr rather than an automotive unit.  Both can get you to the cache but handheld units are made for outdoor use and are much more rugged than automotive type. A common GPSr used for geocaching is the Garmin Etrex Legend HCX.

Part 3 - Now What – Finding caches on line

Photo by Bill.Roehl

I have been posting here about some of the geocaches that I have found. Today I was thinking that maybe some readers might not be aware what geocaching really is and how to get started.  Over the next few days I will be posting my 7 part geocaching how-to.

Starting a new hobby can be intimidating, especially one that is based on technology like geocaching. In this article I hope to give you the info you need to get out and start geocaching…

What we will cover in this article:

• What is geocaching (part 1)
• What equipment you need to get started (part 2)
• Now What – Finding caches on line (part 3)
• Picking a good first cache to hunt (part 4)
• The hunt (part 5)
• Caching with kids (part 6)
• Advanced geocaching (part 7)

What is geocaching:

Geocaching is an outdoor “treasure” hunting game in which people use a Global Positioning System Receiver or GPSr to hide and seek containers, usually military ammo cans or tupperware all over the world outdoors and in public places. The “treasure” is typically low cost items such as toys, foreign coins, flashlights, hand warmers, ect.  Every cache should have at minimum a log book for you to sign, proof that you where there and to leave your mark. Caches can be found anywhere from your local shopping plaza parking lot to the top of a mountain.  There is a cache to meet any one’s caching style… Geocaches are usually placed in laces of interest so this is a great way to find some really neat places you never knew existed.

Part 2 – What equipment you need to get started

Lake Fitzgerald Frozen

Went out for a walk and a cache run at the Fitzgerald Lake Conservation Area this morning.  Today was the first snow fall in Western, MA, it was just a dusting but it was lovely.  Fitzgerald Lake is a 591 acre area owned by the City of Northampton.  On the property you will find a 40 acre man made lake.  This area is rich in wildlife making it very popular with birders. Just off the Marian Street Trail you can find a wildlife blind.  The lake has some very active beavers. Today is the first time I have not seen a beaver while there, and the only reason for that is that the lake was frozen over.  Fishing is allowed but hunting is only allowed in a small area.  A lot of the trails here very wet but they have done a great job laying rock and bridges on the trails to help keep you out of the muck.  Non of the trails really loop which I find to be a bummer.  On the FLCA home page you can view a trail map.

I found two geocaches today. “Hidden Campsite by the Lake” and “Caching the World“.  Campsite by the Lake is a really neat cache that is just what the title says it is.  I wonder when this site was last used and by whom…  The Caching the World cache is just off the parking area and a super easy find.  Would make a great place to relax and read a book in the summer.  I still have 2 more caches to find in the area.

I can’t wait for more snow so I can break out the snowshoes.  The only downfall of the snow is it makes geocaching so much more difficult…

photo by M.Prinke

Now that the cold is here it has got me thinking about snowshoeing.  When you go to the store looking for snowshoes they come in every size, color, and style you can imagine.  I hope I can help you leave the store with a pair that will work for you…

How snowshoes work

Snowshoes allow you to walk on top of snow by spreading your weight over a bigger surface area.  This will allow you to hike, run and climb even in the deepest powder you can find.  The general rule of thumb is the heaver the person or the drier the snow requires a larger snowshoe.

Picking the right snowshoe

First thing you need to look at is usage. Things to consider – How often will they be used, type of snow you get in your area most (dry or wet), how far will you be hiking, how much gear you will be carrying.  All these will help you pick a snowshoe matched for your usage.

How often will they be used/how far will you be hiking – If you are only going to be hiking 3-4 times a year and not hiking deep in the bush you can get away with a recreational snowshoe. If you plan on hiking deep in the woods, climbing steep terrain, or using them every weekend you might want to look into a more rugged snowshoe. Both rugged hiking and recreational snowshoes will look the same the only difference is how they are build and how much they cost.  A rugged hiking snowshoe will be made with a higher grade aluminum frame and stronger hardware but will come with a much higher price tag ($200+).  The recreational snowshoe will be plenty strong for casual use and can typically be found for between $100 and $200.

Once you have decided on a type, next step figuring out what size you need.

snowshoes are sized by weight.   This is how much you weight with boots, coat, pack and all the gear you plan to have with you.

Here is a general size chart:

Keep in mind this is just a starting point and snow type will play a huge factor in size. If you fall right on the edge of a size go with the smaller size.  Smaller snowshoes are much more maneuverable.

• Wet snow = smaller snowshoe
• dry sow = larger snowshoe

Bindings

Bindings are the most important part of the snowshoe. You want bindings that will remain pliable in cold weather and that are easy to strap in to and tighten up with gloves on.

Other things to look at: The binding will pivot on the frame by a rod or a rubberized strap or two.  The rod pivot system will allow the snowshoe tail to drop (and drag) with every step. This keeps snow from building up on the top of the webbing and you won’t be kicking snow up with every step. The strap binding system still pivots just not as freely as the rod system.

I would suggest trying to find an outfitter or someplace that rents snowshoes (cross country ski resorts, some golf courses do this in the winter) or a demo day at a local outfitter and try different types and styles to see what works best for you.     Just remember if you can walk you can snowshoe!

This hike will take you to the summit of two mountains in the Metacomet Ridge. If hiking clockwise the first summit is Bare Mountain.  After a steep rocky climb along the M&M trail (white blaze) you will reach the summit of Bare Mountain (1014ft). On the way to the top there is a great example of a talus slope. Once you reach the summit you will see realize how it got its name. The summit offers 270° views. You can see parts of the University of Massachusetts Amherst campus from the summit. After enjoying the views and finding the geocache (if that is your kind of thing) continue on the M&M trail. You will descend into a valley before your climb to Mt. Hitchcock(~1029ft), the second summit of this loop.  Mt. Hitchcock is the start of the seven sisters. After the Hitchcock summit continue on the M&M you will descend quickly the M&M trail. Turn north at the junction of the Parker trail (blue blaze). Continue till the North Side (yellow blaze) trail. The North Side trail seems to be an old logging trail or atv trail.  You will continue to descend slowly. At the four-way intersection head east toward the reservoir, once you reach the reservoir cross over the brook and continue along the bank of the reservoir heading east toward Military Road.  You will come to a fence that marks the boundary of the Five Colleges Library Depository, within a subterranean bunker formerly occupied by the United States Air Force Strategic Air Command.  This bunker was built in 1957 in case of a nuclear counter-attack. In 1994 the bunker was converted into a book depository for Amherst College.  You wil continue along the fence and end up on Military Rd.  Continue on Military Rd. till you hit Rt116 then back to the Notch parking lot.